Cornhole Boards

1The finished project

A regulation cornhole board 24" wide and 48" long, with a 6" hole and legs that fold flat inside the frame.

1. Read every step once before you cut anything. You will build two identical boards for a set.
2. This plan is for ONE board: the lists and drawings show a single board, so buy and cut double for a set.
3. The board is drawn lying flat with the legs folded. In use, the legs swing down at the end with the hole, which raises that edge to about 12" off the ground while the front edge stays 4" high.

Boards for sanctioned play must follow the current rules of the organization running the event. This plan follows the American Cornhole Organization board dimensions.

2Tools & materials

Gather everything for both boards before you start.

1. For a set of two boards, buy two 1/2" plywood panels (2 x 4 feet) and four 8 foot 2x4s. Pick straight 2x4s without twist and without large knots.
2. Pick up the fasteners on the materials list. Exact lengths matter in this build.
3. Set up a flat work surface at least 24" x 48".

Wear eye and hearing protection when cutting and drilling.

3Cut the parts

Cut the frame parts from two 2x4s. The plywood panel is already the size of the deck.

1. Deck A: a 2 x 4 ft project panel is the deck. Choose a panel that measures a full 24" x 48" and leave it uncut. The drawing shows it on the panel.
2. Cut list for ONE board: two side rails 48" long (B, C), two end rails 21" long (D, E), one middle brace 21" long (F) and two legs 11" long (G, H).
3. First 2x4: cut one side rail 48" and two end rails 21". Measure every piece from the same end of the stud. That uses 90-1/4" of the stud, kerfs included.
4. Second 2x4: cut the other side rail 48", the middle brace 21" and two legs 11". That uses 91-3/8" of the stud, kerfs included.
5. Make every cut square, using the speed square. Label each part with its letter in pencil.

Each cut removes about 1/8" of wood (the saw kerf). Measure each piece from the end of the stud and mark the kerf side of the line.

Most home centers will cut the 2x4s for you at no charge. Show them the cut list.

4Cut the 6 in hole

Mark and cut the 6" hole in the deck while it is still flat on the bench.

1. Lay deck A on the bench with the better face up. Pick one short edge as the TOP edge. Pencil TOP on it.
2. Mark the center line of the deck: make a mark 12" in from each long edge, along the TOP edge.
3. Measure 9" down from the TOP edge along the center line. That point is the center of the hole.
4. Draw the circle. Tap a small nail into the center, tie a string to it and tie a pencil to the string so the pencil is 3" from the nail. Swing the pencil around. You can also trace a 6" wide round lid.
5. Drill a 1/2" start hole inside the circle. Cut along the line with the jigsaw, staying just outside the pencil line.
6. Sand the cut edge smooth until the circle is exactly 6" wide, and ease the top edge of the hole slightly.

Support the deck so the circle does not drop and pinch the blade near the end of the cut.

The hole belongs near the TOP edge, the end that the legs will raise. Mark which end is TOP before you cut.

5Mark the frame screws

Mark and drill the screw holes in the side rails. Each end of each rail gets two screws, and so does the middle.

1. Lay side rails B and C on the bench with the outside faces up. Each one is 48" long. The two rails are mirror images: mark the OUTSIDE face of both.
2. At each end of each rail, mark two screw centers 3/4" in from the end. That is the middle of the 1-1/2" thick end rail. Mark the first 1-1/4" from one edge and the second 1-1/4" from the other edge, so they end up 1" apart.
3. Mark the same two screws 24" from the end, in the middle of each rail. That is where the middle brace will be.
4. Drill a 1/8" pilot hole through the rail at each of the 6 marks on each rail, then countersink each hole so the screw head sits flush.

Keep the pilot holes straight and square to the face of the rail. A crooked screw can come out of the side of the end rail.

6Build the frame

Screw the end rails and the middle brace between the two side rails.

1. Stand the parts on a flat bench on their top edges, so every top edge is flush with the bench. The deck will land on these edges.
2. Put glue on both ends of front end rail D and back end rail E. Press each one between the side rails with its ends flush with the ends of the rails. Clamp it.
3. Drive the #8 x 3 in screws through the pilot holes in B and C into the ends of D and E: 2 screws per joint, 8 in all.
4. Slide in middle brace F with glue on both ends. Its center is 24" from the front end. Drive the last 4 screws through the middle holes.
5. Measure both diagonals of the frame. They must be equal. If they differ, push the long diagonal corners together until they match, then let the glue set.

Wipe off glue squeeze-out now. Dried glue shows through paint.

The deck must sit flat on the frame: check that all the top edges are flush before the glue sets.

7Attach the legs

Round the end of each leg and bolt it to the inside of the side rail so it swings down.

1. Round the end of legs G and H that will pivot. Trace a half circle with a radius of 1-3/4" (the leg is 3-1/2" wide) and cut it with the jigsaw. Sand it smooth.
2. Mark the bolt hole on each leg: 1-3/4" from the rounded end and 1-3/4" from each long edge.
3. Hold leg G flat against the inside of left rail B, with its rounded end toward the back and about 1/4" short of back end rail E. Clamp it.
4. The bolt center on the rail is 3-1/2" from the back end of the rail and 1-3/4" up from the bottom edge. Drill a 1/4" hole through the rail and the leg together.
5. Push a carriage bolt through from the outside. On the inside of the leg add a washer and a wing nut. Tighten by hand until the leg still swings but does not wobble.
6. Repeat on the right side with leg H. Fold both legs flat inside the frame.

Both bolt holes must be at the same distance from the back end, or the board will sit crooked.

The leg must clear back end rail E when it swings. If it touches, round the leg a little more.

8Attach the deck

Glue the deck to the frame and screw it down.

1. Dry fit: set deck A on the frame with its hole at the BACK, the end with the legs. All four edges must be flush. Lift it off.
2. Spread glue on the top edges of the rails, the end rails and the middle brace. Keep glue off the legs.
3. Lower the deck onto the frame, align all four edges and weight or clamp it.
4. Mark the screws on the deck, 3/4" in from each long edge (the middle of the rail). Start 6" from the front edge and repeat every 12": 4 screws on each side.
5. Mark 2 screws on each of the front end rail, the middle brace and the back end rail, 6" in from each long edge. The middle brace is 24" from the front edge.
6. Drill a 1/8" pilot hole at each of the 14 marks, countersink it and drive a #6 x 1-1/4 in screw.

Use 1-1/4 in screws only, and keep out of the area around the hole.

Do not let glue reach the legs: they must swing freely.

9Sand & finish

Make a smooth playing surface that looks like a store-bought board.

1. Fill every screw head on the deck with wood filler. Let it dry, then sand it flush.
2. Sand the deck and frame with 120, then 180, then 220 grit. Round every sharp edge slightly, and round the edges of the hole.
3. Wipe off dust. Paint or stain the frame and the deck. Apply 2 coats, sanding lightly with 220 between coats.
4. Apply 2 to 3 thin coats of clear polyurethane to the deck. A smooth finish lets the bags slide. Let it cure as the can says before play.

Oily finishing rags can catch fire on their own. Lay them flat outdoors to dry.

Do not fold the legs until the paint is completely dry, or it can stick to the frame.

10Final check

Check the size and the stance before game night.

1. Measure the deck. It must be 24" wide and 48" long, and the center of the hole 9" from the top edge.
2. Swing both legs down and stand the board on a flat floor. The top edge of the playing surface should be about 12" off the floor and the front edge 4". Check both legs touch the floor and the board does not rock.
3. Tighten both wing nuts by hand. Fold the legs flat and check that they fit inside the frame.
4. Repeat the whole plan for the second board. Both boards must match.

Check the wing nuts before every game. They can loosen over time.